What it is
A city of a few tens of thousands on St Mary's Island, with the port, the government and not much else; most of the population lives in Serekunda and the Kombo districts to the west. Arch 22 is a tall gateway built in 1996 to mark the coup two years earlier. Albert Market is the main market.
Why go
It is a short, useful morning rather than a base. The National Museum covers Gambian history in a modest way. Albert Market is working rather than touristic. The ferry terminal for Barra, on the north bank, is here, and so is the departure point for river trips to Kunta Kinteh Island.
When to go
Early in the day, and not on a ferry day if you can avoid it. Almost all visitors stay on the coast 15 to 20 km away and come in for a few hours.
Most people stay Day trip.