What it is
A volcanic island off the northwest coast, about 320 square kilometres, with its own airport and direct flights from Antananarivo plus some seasonal international ones. Beach hotels, diving, and boat trips to the smaller islands of Nosy Komba, where black lemurs live around the villages, and Nosy Tanikely, a marine reserve with good snorkelling. Lokobe Reserve holds a remnant of the island's original forest.
Why go
It is where the road stops mattering. After ten days on the RN7 it is the obvious place to stop moving. Whale sharks are seen offshore from around September to December, and humpbacks pass through from July to September.
When to go
April to November. The rainy season from January to March is heavy here and it sits in the cyclone belt. This is the least characteristic part of the country, and it is fine to treat it that way: come for the wildlife elsewhere, end here. It does not on its own justify the flight to Madagascar.
Most people stay 3-5 nights.