What it is
Elmina Castle was built by the Portuguese in 1482 and taken by the Dutch in 1637. Cape Coast Castle was built by the Swedes in 1653 and held by the English from 1664. Both were rebuilt and enlarged repeatedly over three centuries. Both stand directly on the shore, whitewashed, with courtyards above and stone dungeons cut into the rock below. They are part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing covering the forts and castles of Ghana's coast.
Why go
These are the physical sites of the transatlantic slave trade on this stretch of coast. Captives taken inland were held in the dungeons, in conditions recorded in the traders' own documents, before being loaded through a passage to the sea. Both castles are entered on a guided tour, which runs about an hour and takes in the male and female dungeons, the condemned cell, the governor's quarters, the chapel built directly above the dungeon, and the sea passage now known as the Door of No Return. Museums at both sites cover the trade, the abolition period and the later colonial use of the buildings. For many visitors of African descent this is the reason for the whole trip, and Ghana has built formal provision around that: wreath-laying and naming ceremonies can be arranged in advance through the castle administration or the Ghana Tourism Authority.
When to go
Open daily. Tours run through the day; the last usually leaves in the late afternoon, so check on arrival. Mornings are quieter and cooler. December and early January are the busiest weeks of the year, and tour groups can be large. The events around Emancipation Day on 1 August and PANAFEST draw crowds and ceremonies to both towns. Guides vary in how they present the history and some figures they quote are contested; the site museums are more careful, and worth the extra time.
Most people stay 2 nights.