What it is
A small, dry island whose deep natural harbour made it a nineteenth-century refuelling stop for Atlantic shipping, largely run by British coal companies. Mindelo, the town, keeps the pastel colonial frontages and a working port.
Why go
Music. Morna and coladeira are played live in bars around Rua de Lisboa most nights of the week, and the standard is high. Cesária Évora was born and lived here and the airport carries her name. Mindelo's February carnival is the biggest in the islands and has a Brazilian influence. Baía das Gatas, on the north coast, hosts a large music festival on the August full moon.
When to go
Any month. February for carnival and August for Baía das Gatas, both of which need accommodation booked far ahead on a small island. Mindelo also works as the transit point for Santo Antão, so two nights here and three across the water is a natural pairing.
Most people stay 2-3 nights.