What it is
A town about 140 km north of Cotonou. Twelve kings ruled Dahomey from here between roughly 1625 and 1900, each building a palace within a single earth-walled enclosure. The palaces of Ghezo and Glele hold the Musée Historique d'Abomey. Painted bas-reliefs on the walls record reigns, wars and royal symbols.
Why go
It is the seat of the state that ran the trade at Ouidah, and it is unusual in showing that history from the African side. The museum covers the kingdom's administration, its army, including the women's regiments Europeans called the Dahomey Amazons, and its dealings with European traders. Twenty-six works looted by French forces in 1892 were returned by France in 2021 and have been exhibited in Benin; check where they are on display when you book. The palace site was damaged by fire in 1984 and parts are reconstruction, which the museum states.
When to go
November to February, when the drive from Cotonou is straightforward at around two and a half hours. Guided tours are the only way into the palace enclosure and photography inside is restricted.
Most people stay 1-2 nights.