What it is
A coastal city of over a million between the Atlantic and Lake Nokoué, with the country's main airport and port. Porto-Novo, 30 km east, is the official capital and much quieter. Dantokpa Market covers a huge site beside the lagoon.
Why go
Mostly as a base, but there are reasons to spend a day. Dantokpa is a working regional market where the fetish section sells the materials of Vodun practice openly. The Fondation Zinsou shows contemporary African art and is free. Zemidjan motorcycle taxis, in numbered yellow shirts, are how the city moves.
When to go
November to February. The ocean beaches in the city have strong currents and are not for swimming. Everything else in the south is within a two-hour drive from here, so most itineraries use Cotonou at both ends.
Most people stay 2 nights.