What it is
A city of around four million on the Cap-Vert peninsula. The Plateau is the colonial-era administrative centre. Almadies, at the tip, is the westernmost point of mainland Africa. Ngor and Yoff are fishing villages absorbed into the city, with surf.
Why go
Music, first. Mbalax is Dakar's own form and there are clubs where it is played live several nights a week, alongside hip-hop that Senegal exports across the region. The Musée des Civilisations Noires, opened in 2018, is the most ambitious museum in West Africa and is rarely crowded. The African Renaissance Monument on the western hills is a 52-metre bronze that Senegalese opinion remains divided about; the view from the top is the reason to climb it. Markets at Sandaga and Kermel, tailors on every other street, and a strong contemporary art scene built around the Dak'Art biennale.
When to go
November to February for the weather. Nightlife starts very late, often after midnight, and much of it is on Thursday to Saturday. Dakar is also the practical base for day trips to Gorée and Lac Rose, so allow for traffic when scheduling either.
Most people stay 3 nights.